Climbing in Ogliastra: a guide to the crags of Jerzu, Ulassai and Osini

Ogliastra isn't just about the sea: the inland area between Jerzu, Ulassai and Osini is one of the least crowded and most interesting climbing areas on Sardinia's east coast. Solid limestone rock, sectors just minutes from the villages and, in many cases, almost never a queue at the base of a route — something that climbers used to the island's more famous crags find hard to believe until they see it for themselves.

Villa Pelau sits right in the countryside of Jerzu, among the Cannonau vineyards: the first crags are just minutes away by car, which makes this area a convenient base for a climbing-and-beach holiday without too much driving around.

The crags of Jerzu

Jerzu is the most natural starting point for anyone staying in the area. The sectors around the village offer limestone rock with routes mostly in the easy-to-medium grade range, well bolted and suitable even for those who've only recently taken up climbing.

For precise numbers on routes and grades, the reference is Maurizio Oviglia's guidebook Jerzu, Osini, Ulassai (2023 edition), which lists around 1,300 sport routes across the four villages in the area: you'll find it in specialist shops or online, and it's the right thing to pick up before you set off.

Ulassai: rock and art together

Ulassai is best known for the Su Marmuri cave and the Stazione dell'Arte dedicated to Maria Lai, but the area around the village also offers interesting limestone walls for climbers. It's one of the most promising areas in Ogliastra for those looking for less-visited sectors.

• Limestone rock, often with good friction.
• Some sectors demand more experience than those around Jerzu.
• Easy to combine with a visit to the Su Marmuri cave on the same day.

Osini: between the old village and the rock

Osini Vecchio, the village abandoned after the 1951 flood, sits in a setting of canyons and limestone walls that make the area striking even for those who don't climb. For anyone looking for crags, the area is worth a direct scouting trip: it's less documented online than Jerzu and Ulassai, another sign of how far this area still is from the beaten track.

Practical tips from a local

• Plenty of water: many crags are exposed to the sun for most of the day, especially in late spring and summer.
• Shoes and personal gear: there are no climbing shops in Jerzu — bring everything you need from home or stop in Tortolì/Lanusei on your way in.
• Phone signal: in some inland sectors the signal is weak — download route topos before you leave.
• Combine rock and sea: the drive between the inland crags and the coastal beaches is often just 20-30 minutes — perfect for a mixed day.

Staying at Villa Pelau puts you right at the heart of this area: the crags of Jerzu are a stone's throw away, and you can easily wind down the day at the beach or in the garden with a heated jacuzzi in the evening.