The 15 most beautiful beaches in Ogliastra: a local's guide

I was born in Ogliastra and I've been coming to these beaches my whole life, in every season.

One thing first: in Ogliastra, one beach is almost always just a few minutes' drive from the next, so you don't have to pick just one. From Villa Pelau the coast is about 10 minutes away, and you can choose a different sea every day.

1. Cala Goloritzé and the coves of Baunei

One of the most spectacular spots in the world, not just in Sardinia. The coves of Baunei (Goloritzé, Mariolu, Sisine, dei Gabbiani) can be reached two ways: some overland, via trails from the Golgo plateau, or by renting a dinghy from the harbours of Arbatax or Santa Maria Navarrese. No boating licence is needed up to 40 hp.

2. Su Sirboni

A wild beach rising out of the Mediterranean scrub: fine sand, shallow water, no services — no paid toilets or umbrellas, just nature. From July 15 to September 15 it requires booking through Heart of Sardinia (3 euros for adults). Park on the roadside verge and reach it with a very short 5-minute walk. Open in Google Maps

3. Cea Beach

Fine sand and shallow water, perfect for families. Known for its faraglioni: two red rocks rising just off the coast, among the most photographed sights in Ogliastra. For those who prefer it, plenty of services are on hand: sunbeds, showers, bars. Open in Google Maps

4. Torre di Barì Beach

Marked by the perfectly preserved Saracen tower overlooking the coast. The seabed is made of tiny pebbles that form a soft surface; the water gets deep faster here than at other beaches. Watch the parking: the blue-line spots are paid at certain hours, check the signs. Open in Google Maps

5. Lido di Orrì

Tortolì's best-known beach: very fine white sand, clear water and a few scenic rocks at the ends of the shore and offshore. Blue-line parking is paid: if you're staying the whole day, it's worth using one of the two private car parks with a flat rate. Open in Google Maps

6. Le Piscinette Beach

The same features as Orrì — white sand and clear water — with parking that's free and right in front of the beach. Open in Google Maps

7. Golfetto Beach

A small beach with magnificent colours. In high season, from July 15 to August 30, it gets very crowded — better to arrive early in the morning or visit in June or September. Open in Google Maps

8. Perdepera Beach

Very large and rarely crowded even in high season. The water is deep, and it's the beach of choice for sports like kitesurfing, especially in the early and late months of summer. Open in Google Maps

9. San Gemiliano Beach

A very wide beach at the foot of the tower of the same name, a well-preserved Saracen tower that's also easy to visit (a great viewpoint). One of the most convenient spots in the Tortolì area. Open in Google Maps

10. Porto Frailis Beach

Small but very distinctive: fine sand and scenery made even better by the fact that it's a proper little bay. It fills up fast in high season — in summer Porto Frailis is the main tourist hub of the Tortolì area, with restaurants and services close by. Open in Google Maps

11. Museddu Beach

A very long stretch of coast, rarely crowded on weekdays even in high season. Open in Google Maps

12. Santa Maria Navarrese Beach

At the foot of the village of the same name: the perfect choice if you want to spend a whole day in Santa Maria Navarrese, between the sea, a stroll and dinner in the village. It's also one of the harbours dinghies leave from for the coves of Baunei. Open in Google Maps

13. Foxi Manna Beach

Far from the heart of Ogliastra but spectacular: fine white sand, shallow water, at the foot of Monte Ferru. Open in Google Maps

14. Coccorocci Beach

Quite isolated: here the contact with nature is total. No sand, only pebbles — bring water shoes and you'll enjoy one of the wildest beaches on the east coast. Open in Google Maps

15. La Spiaggetta

A small beach, mostly pebbles with a strip of sand here and there, rarely crowded. Ideal for those after some peace and quiet without going too far. Open in Google Maps

Dog-friendly beaches

If you're travelling with your dog, Ogliastra has more options than you'd think. The three main dog beaches are:

• Barisardo dog beach — the nicest one, near Torre di Barì beach. Open in Google Maps
• Planargia dog beach (Barisardo) — close to the first one, with similar features. Open in Google Maps
• Basaura dog beach — near the centre of Tortolì, a bit further away. Open in Google Maps

One more tip: along the coast you'll often find rocky and partly sandy stretches where it's very easy to have the place to yourselves and spend a quiet beach day with your dog. At Villa Pelau, by the way, pets are welcome and the garden is fully fenced.

Which one should you choose? My take

All these beaches are an easy reach from Villa Pelau: the villa sits in Pelau, downhill from the village of Jerzu, centrally placed along the Ogliastra coast, so every day you can choose a different sea — coming back in the evening to the quiet of the countryside, between the garden, barbecue and jacuzzi.