Trekking in Ogliastra: the most beautiful hikes (Gorropu, Selvaggio Blu and more)

Ogliastra is one of the few places in the Mediterranean where, in the same holiday, you can walk through a canyon with 500-metre walls, climb to the roof of Sardinia, and hike down to one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I was born here and I've known these trails all my life: in this guide you'll find the hikes I genuinely recommend to my guests, split between mountain views and sea views, each with the Komoot route to follow.

One tip before you set off: in Ogliastra distances are short, but hiking times aren't. Always bring plenty of water, real hiking shoes (not trainers) and download the routes offline: in some inland areas the phone signal is weak.

Mountain-view hikes

Gola di Gorropu — Europe's deepest canyon

Difficulty: hard. The most demanding hike on this list, but also the most breathtaking: you walk towards a canyon with limestone walls over 500 metres high, carved over millennia by the Flumineddu river. Entrance to the canyon costs 6 euros (4 for children aged 6-17). There are two main access points: from the Genna Silana pass on the SS125 (about an hour down on the way in, double that back up), or the longer, wilder route from Sedda ar Baccas, on the Urzulei plateau — the one I'd recommend if you want the more authentic version. Route on Komoot

The Tacchi trails towards Ulassai

Difficulty: medium. The Tacchi are the limestone and dolomite towers that dominate inland Ogliastra, and the trails crossing them towards Ulassai are among the most scenic on the island. Route on Komoot — with a variant that passes through the village streets, among Maria Lai's open-air artworks: variant on Komoot. It's the perfect hike to combine with a visit to the Su Marmuri cave or the Stazione dell'Arte.

Nuraghe Serbissi and Gola di San Giorgio

Difficulty: medium. The Serbissi nuraghe, home of the ancient nuragic civilisation — the people all Sardinians descend from — is one of the best preserved on the island, with a breathtaking panorama on all four sides. Below the nuraghe there's also a small cave you can visit. The route also touches the Gola di San Giorgio, the spectacular rock fissure above Osini. Route on Komoot

Punta La Marmora — the roof of Sardinia

Difficulty: hard. The path to the top of the Gennargentu, Sardinia's highest point: on clear days the view stretches from coast to coast. It starts at the Bruncu Spina refuge. Route on Komoot

The pools of S'Ogliu Ermanu — Ussassai's secret

Hidden pools that tourist websites don't know about: natural pools with magnificent colours, far from any town, downhill of Ogliastra in the territory of Ussassai. Very well hidden — and that's exactly the point. If you're after a completely authentic spot, this is it. Precisely for that reason, please treat the ecosystem with real respect, taking away all your rubbish and keeping noise down. Route on Komoot

Sea-view hikes

Cala Goloritzé from the Golgo plateau

Difficulty: medium. Ogliastra's signature hike: from the Su Porteddu car park, on the Golgo plateau above Baunei, the trail descends about 3.5 km to the beach dominated by the 143-metre spire. An hour and a half down, up to two back up. Booking is mandatory from 3 days ahead via the Heart of Sardinia app (about €7 per person: the ticket includes the trail, parking and beach). The trail opens at 7:30 and entry closes in the early afternoon: go early — the morning light on the spire is worth the early start. Book on the official website

Santa Maria Navarrese – Pedra Longa

Difficulty: easy. The trail hugs the coast from Santa Maria Navarrese to the foot of Pedra Longa, the towering rock stack that's a symbol of the Baunei coast. It's the first stage of the Selvaggio Blu, but the easy version: perfect for families and for anyone who wants a taste of the wild coast with no real commitment. On the way back, a swim at Santa Maria Navarrese beach rounds off the day. Route on Komoot

Perdepera from above

Difficulty: medium. A route with sea views from the hillsides near Cardedu: spectacular coastal scenery and very few people. Pair it with a swim at Perdepera beach, right at the foot of the trail. Route on Komoot

Sa Perda Stampada

A rock arch that frames the eastern Sardinian coast like a natural window: stunning colours and a breathtaking view from above — one of the best photos you'll take home from Ogliastra, and a spot that's known almost only to locals. Route on Komoot

The pools of Coccorocci

Magnificent natural pools carved into the rock, in the most isolated and wild part of the coast, near the pebble beach of Coccorocci. Crystal-clear water and no services: just you and the sea. Route on Komoot

An honourable mention: the Selvaggio Blu

I couldn't close without mentioning it: the Selvaggio Blu is considered Italy's hardest and most beautiful trek. From Santa Maria Navarrese to Cala Sisine (or Cala Gonone, in the full version), days of walking along old charcoal burners' and shepherds' trails, past cliffs plunging into the sea, abseils and nights spent bivouacking. It's not a hike: it's an expedition, and it should only be attempted with an expert guide and serious preparation. But if you're a real walker, it's one of the experiences of a lifetime — and you can already get a taste of the first stage (the one to Pedra Longa) on this holiday.

Which hike should you choose?

Villa Pelau sits in Pelau, downhill from the village of Jerzu: the Tacchi trails and the Gola di San Giorgio are minutes away, Gorropu and the Golgo plateau under an hour. And after a day of walking, few things beat coming back to the villa: a shower, barbecue and jacuzzi under the stars to put your legs back together.