The Baunei coast: map, coves and how to get there
by Roberto Demurtas · Host of Villa Pelau · updated on 31 October 2026
The coves of the Baunei coast from Santa Maria Navarrese to Cala Luna: an interactive map by sea and on foot, trails, times and tips from a local.
Forty kilometres of cliffs plunging into the sea, between Santa Maria Navarrese and Cala Luna: the Baunei coast is the most spectacular stretch of eastern Sardinia, with coves of white sand and pebbles hemmed in by limestone walls, caves and rocks you can only see from the water.
There are two ways to get there, by boat or on foot, and the choice shapes your day: some coves can only be admired from offshore, others only reached after a trail of a few hours, and some in both ways. Below you'll find the map of the coast, cove by cove: choose how to get there and tap a stop to see the photos, the details of the trail or the boat trip and, where there is one, the route on Komoot.
The map, cove by cove
- Boats leave from the harbours of Santa Maria Navarrese and Arbatax, both 25′ from Villa Pelau.
- Shared or private boat tours, guided dinghies, or a rented dinghy with no licence needed (up to 40 hp).
- Trips last about 8 hours: half a day isn't enough.
- Some coves, like Goloritzé, can only be admired from offshore; for the others, where boats may land changes from year to year.
Cala Goloritzé · By sea
1 / 4Cala Goloritzé
- From the sea
- can only be admired from offshore: boats don't come ashore
- On foot
- the only way onto the beach, from Su Porteddu
By sea
Boats leave from the harbour of Santa Maria Navarrese and from Arbatax, both 25 minutes' drive from Villa Pelau. You can choose between shared or private tours, guided dinghies and a rental dinghy, which needs no boating licence up to 40 horsepower. Trips last about 8 hours: half a day isn't enough to reach the northernmost coves.
Some coves, like Cala Goloritzé, can only be admired from offshore: boats don't come ashore. For the others, where you can land changes from year to year: ask whoever runs your tour before you set off. To choose between a tour and a dinghy, there's also the page on boat trips.
On foot
Almost all the trails to the coves start from the Golgo plateau, above Baunei; the last stretch by car is on a dirt road. You walk from half an hour to three hours, and some trails are for experienced hikers (EE): Cala Mariolu and Cala Biriala are the most demanding hikes, and the ones with the best views.
Set off early, with at least 2 litres of water each and hiking shoes; your phone may have no signal. At Goloritzé, Mariolu and Biriala dogs are not allowed on the beach. For Cala Goloritzé, the only one with limited access, all the details are in the dedicated guide; the other trails in the area are in the guide to trekking in Ogliastra.
The stops, from south to north
- Santa Maria NavarreseBy sea
- Harbour: departures for the whole coast, as far as Cala Luna
- From Villa Pelau: 25′ by car
- Pedra LongaBy sea
- From the sea: the first stop on tours heading north
On foot- Start: Santa Maria Navarrese
- Difficulty: easy
- Route: along the sea to the foot of the rock spire
- BàusBy sea
- From the sea: the waterfall only shows after rain
On footNo path: by sea only - Cala FenileBy sea
- From the sea: between Bàus and the Grotta dei Colombi
On foot- Start: Pedra Longa, where the Selvaggio Blu begins
- Length: 2.5 km, about 45′
- Ascent: 290 m
- Difficulty: easy (F)
- Good to know: a pebble beach formed in 2015 after a flood; no refreshments
- Grotta dei ColombiBy sea
- From the sea: a sea cave and a stop on the tours
On footNo path: by sea only - Portu PedrosuBy sea
- By sea only: there are no paths
On footNo path: by sea only - Portu CuauBy sea
- By sea only: there are no paths
On footNo path: by sea only - Cala GoloritzéBy sea
- From the sea: can only be admired from offshore: boats don't come ashore
- On foot: the only way onto the beach, from Su Porteddu
On foot- Start: Su Porteddu, Golgo plateau: car park and bar
- Path: 3.5 km: 1 h 30′ down, up to 2 h back up
- Ticket: €7, free under 6; 250 people a day
- Booking: required, with the Heart of Sardinia app from 3 days before
- Cala delle SorgentiBy sea
- By sea only: two twin coves near Goloritzé
On footNo path: by sea only - Cala dei GabbianiBy sea
- By sea only: between the Sorgenti and Cala Mariolu
- Beach: about 250 m of fine sand and white pebbles
On footNo path: by sea only - Cala MarioluBy sea
- From the sea: one of the stops on boat tours
- Facilities: kiosk with drinks and snacks from June to September
On foot- Start: Piredda, Golgo plateau (free parking on the dirt road)
- Length: 6 km, about 2 h 45′
- Ascent: +200 / −560 m
- Difficulty: EE, not for anyone with vertigo; a guide is recommended
- Piscine di VenereBy sea
- By sea only: about an hour's sailing from Santa Maria Navarrese
On footNo path: by sea only - Cala BirialaBy sea
- From the sea: near the Piscine di Venere and the Grotta del Fico
On foot- Start: Olobitzi, Golgo plateau (paid parking)
- Times: 1 h 30′ there, 2 h back, 2.7 km
- Ascent: about 340 m, EE difficulty
- Good to know: wooden and iron ladders, not for anyone with vertigo; no refreshments
- Cala SisineBy sea
- From the sea: can also be reached by boat
On foot- Start: Planu 'e Murta: the last stretch of road is tricky, you need a car that isn't low-slung and some driving experience
- Length: 1.5 km, about 30′
- Difficulty: easy (F)
- Facilities: Su Coile restaurant, a few steps from the beach
- Cala LunaBy sea
- From the sea: the northern limit of the tours, about 40 km of coastline
- Facilities: Su Neulagi bar and restaurant
On foot- Start: Cala Fuili (Dorgali) or from inland Baunei
- Difficulty: for experienced hikers
Hiking or a boat trip?
If you love walking, choose a hike: the views are incredible. If you prefer the sea, the boat tour is a dream. Either way, Villa Pelau is a convenient base: the harbours of Santa Maria Navarrese and Arbatax are 25 minutes away, the Golgo plateau about 45. And in the evening, after a day of sun and salt, you come back to the quiet of the countryside, with the jacuzzi waiting in the garden.
Frequently asked questions
Can you reach Cala Goloritzé by boat?+
No. Cala Goloritzé can only be reached on foot, on the trail from Su Porteddu on the Golgo plateau: boats can only admire it from offshore, without coming ashore.
Where do boats to the Baunei coves leave from?+
From the harbours of Santa Maria Navarrese and Arbatax, both 25 minutes' drive from Villa Pelau. Shared or private tours, guided dinghies and rental dinghies all leave from here.
Do you need a licence to rent a dinghy?+
No: up to 40 horsepower no boating licence is needed. It's the freest way to choose your coves and the pace of your day.
How long does a boat trip along the Baunei coast take?+
About 8 hours. Half a day isn't enough: the coast is around forty kilometres long, from Santa Maria Navarrese to Cala Luna.
Which coves can you reach on foot?+
Cala Goloritzé, Cala Mariolu, Cala Biriala and Cala Sisine, on trails that start from the Golgo plateau; Cala Fenile from Pedra Longa; Cala Luna from Cala Fuili, on the Dorgali side. The other stops can only be reached by sea.
Do you need to book?+
For Cala Goloritzé, yes: access is limited to 250 people a day, booked with the Heart of Sardinia app from 3 days before. For boat trips, booking ahead is wise in high season.
Roberto Demurtas
Host of Villa Pelau
Sono nato e cresciuto in Ogliastra. Con Villa Pelau accolgo chi vuole scoprire questa terra, e in questa guida racconto i posti che frequento da sempre.
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