When to visit Ogliastra: the best time of year, month by month

Every time a guest asks me "so when should I actually come to Ogliastra?", my answer is always the same: it depends on what you're looking for. There isn't just one right season here. There's the Ogliastra of packed July beaches, the one of deserted April trails, the one of autumn festivals where every weekend a different village opens up its courtyards. I was born here and I live all of them: in this guide I'll tell you what to expect month by month, so you can pick the right time for your holiday.

A practical note first: Villa Pelau is open from March to October and closes over the winter. It's a span that, not by chance, covers all the best seasons to enjoy Ogliastra.

Spring and autumn: my favourite seasons

If it were up to me, I'd come in spring or early autumn. The weather is mild, the days have grown longer and — above all — there are very few people. It's the ideal time for trekking and total contact with nature: climbers arrive right now, and the natural landmarks can be admired in a peace that's unthinkable in summer. The Lequarci Waterfalls at Ulassai — the most impressive in Sardinia, a drop that in winter and early spring becomes a roaring wall of water — are best enjoyed exactly when the season is still cool and rainy.

It's also the season of traditional events, the real ones. In spring there's Primavera nel Cuore della Sardegna: from late April to late June, every weekend a village opens its doors to visitors amid music, crafts and home cooking — several stops are right here in Ogliastra (Loceri, Bari Sardo, Lanusei with its Cherry Festival). In autumn it's the turn of Autunno in Barbagia (the famous Cortes Apertas): from September to December the inland villages open their historic courtyards, one weekend each, to share flavours and customs. And if you don't mind a bit of chill, you can even treat yourself to the first or last swims of the year.

June and September: my tip for families

These are the two months I recommend most to those travelling with children. The sea starts offering great temperatures — around 21°C — but the coast isn't yet (or no longer) besieged the way it is in high summer. By day you enjoy the beach in peace, in the evening the air is cool and pleasant, and during the cooler hours you can still fit in a hike without suffering the sun. Some villages are already starting to come alive with the first festivals and events. It's the perfect balance between sea and serenity.

July and August: high summer

The blazing season, in every sense. Temperatures are high, the sea reaches around 25°C and the days on the beach are the unforgettable kind — from the most famous Ogliastra beaches to the little coves you reach at dawn. In the evening, after the sea, the ritual is to cool off in the jacuzzi before heading out: the nearby villages buzz with festivals, food fairs, theatre and events for every taste. It's the liveliest and most crowded season: if you want the packed sea and the party, it's yours; if you want peace, aim for June, September or the shoulder seasons.

My final advice

There's no wrong month for Ogliastra: there's the right month for you. If you love walking and want silence, come in spring or early autumn and pencil in a day of trekking and maybe a visit to a village during one of the traditional festivals. If you want the sea and aren't put off by crowds, July and August will give you unforgettable days. And if you're after the best of both worlds — good sea and villages still quiet — June and September are the choice I steer my guests towards most often.