Ogliastra in 7 days: the itinerary of someone who lives here

How often do I meet guests who come back from a holiday in Sardinia more tired than when they left, because they changed four places to stay in seven days. In Ogliastra there's no need: distances are short and, with a fixed base, you can reach both the sea and the mountains as day trips. I've built this 7-day itinerary with several alternatives — designed not to rush: two big excursions, a few beach days, the inland villages and always a little breathing space. I live here, and this is the rhythm at which I suggest my guests discover Ogliastra.

The underlying idea: a fixed base at Villa Pelau, in Jerzu, in the heart of the Cannonau vineyards, with the days radiating out from there. No repacking suitcases, no transfer stress.

Day 1 — Arrival and settling in

No rush. You settle in, get to know Jerzu and its Cannonau vineyards, take a first tour of the nearby villages or head to the closest beaches and have dinner with local dishes. At sunset, jacuzzi and rest: the holiday starts on the right foot. To understand where you've landed, take a look at the history and traditions of Ogliastra and at what to eat.

Day 2 — An easy beach to start

A first beach day in comfortable mode, to settle in: Cea or Orrì, with their shallow water and fine sand, are perfect for a carefree debut. Back in the afternoon and relax. All the options in the guide to Ogliastra's beaches.

Day 3 — Big excursion: Cala Goloritzé

The first of the two "big" days. Cala Goloritzé deserves the whole day: booking made in advance, morning start, descent along the trail and return in the late afternoon with the best light. Everything you need in the guide on how to get to Cala Goloritzé.

Day 4 — A light day, near base

After Goloritzé, the body asks for recovery: that's why the fourth day is all a few minutes from Pelau, and as easy as you like. The Su Marmuri Cave and the Lequarci Waterfalls at Ulassai, the Maria Lai Art Station, and for those with energy left, an easy crag. Ideas in what to see in Ogliastra, in the Su Marmuri guide and in the climbing guide.

Day 5 — Nature: the Gorropu Gorge

The second big excursion, between the walls of one of the deepest canyons in Europe. You choose the access according to the group's fitness — there's the scenic one and the gentler one — and reckon on a full day. If tiredness kicks in, the plan B is a quiet beach like Su Sirboni. How to organise it in the guide on how to get to Gorropu; to place it among the other trails, the guide to trekking in Ogliastra.

Day 6 — Villages, Blue Zone and flavours

A slow-paced day inland, the authentic one. The ghost villages of Osini and Gairo Vecchio, the views of the Tacchi, a typical lunch and a visit to a winery. It's the Ogliastra of the Blue Zone and traditions, of the villages and of the home cooking. Plan B sea: Torre di Barì.

Day 7 — One last sea and departure

A last morning by the sea on a nearby beach or on the Santa Maria Navarrese seafront, then goodbyes. It's unlikely to be a farewell: most people who come here return, perhaps in another season — and on that I've written the guide on when to visit Ogliastra.

Why it works: the breathing room

This itinerary deliberately leaves gaps: a free morning here, a plan B there, a light day after each big excursion. It's not laziness, it's the right way to experience Ogliastra. With a fixed base at Villa Pelau you don't lose half-days packing and unpacking, and every evening you return to the same quiet spot among the vineyards. Seven days like this aren't enough to see everything — but they're enough to truly experience it, and that's what counts.